Info from Izook
www.izook.com1. Place a 2wd Tracker/Sidekick transmission w/1600 in your Samurai. Dave La Tourette
I wanted to swap a Sidekick 1600cc engine into my 1987 Sammy for the extra power, but didn't want to use a commercial weld-on or bolt on kit. I decided to use the Sidekick 2WD transmission. This transmission can accept the 215mm Sidekick flywheel and clutch-- a much stronger setup than the Sammy 190mm clutch. Also the Sidekick transmission is stronger, with bigger gears and shafts. The only possible drawback I've come up with is that it uses a lower fifth rear ratio than the pre-88.5 Sammy. This would only be of concern to those whose rigs are geared really low, and need the tall fifth for the highway.
Even though my Sammy is SPOA, I used the Sammy oil pan and modified it instead of using the Sidekick pan as some others do. I figured if I hit a big enough bump, such as a water bar, I could still have contact between the front axle and oil pan (not good).
The modifications to the pan are quite easy. First you need to break all the spot welds that hold the baffles in place and remove them. You can just use a beater screwdriver and a hammer for this, they (the spot-welds) break off quite easily. Make sure you take out the big baffle, and the little one underneath it. Next you need to use a torch (even a propane type will suffice) and heat up and hammer (lightly) flat the two indented areas at the rear of the pan over the rearmost two bolt holes. These get in the way of the 1600's rear main cap and stud girdle. You can bend a little, then do a test fit. Repeat until you get it right. As for the oil pickup tube, you'll need to use pieces of both the 1300 and the 1600 tubes. Use the oil pump end of the 1600 tube and cut it off a little past where the support bracket is, then cut the strainer end off the 1300 tube and slide it in the cut off end of the 1600 tube. Position it where it needs to be by installing the pan and looking through the drain plug hole, then weld it up. Alternatively, Hawk Suzuki (1-888-SAMURAI) sells the tube already made up for $35.
Next I had to modify (read bend and cut) the transmission tunnel for the Sidekick transmission to fit. Here a 2" or so body lift would have been really nice, but I'm not a body lift kinda guy. I had to cut a section from the bottom of the stock shifter hole down to about .5" forward of the transfer case boot front edge. The cut out section was the same width as the existing shifter hole. Also I needed to cut a round section out at the rear of this cut out and on the driver's side to make room for the 'Frankenstein' bolt on the Sidekick transmission. Then I had to bend (BF hammer or scissors jack) the tunnel on the driver's side a little to make room for the wider Sidekick transmission. Note that the hole and the widening of the tunnel would be greatly reduced if a body lift was done. Also It would be easier to refit the stock shifter boot. Even a 1" lift would help. As for a shifter boot, I put the stock one on backwards, and it works fairly well. Since I have no body lift, I also shortened (by about 4") and straightened the shifter a little.
For engine mount brackets, I used the Sammy left-side mount bracket with Sammy rubber mount. However the Sammy right-side mount bracket interferes with the clutch cable bracket, so I used a Sidekick right side bracket -- allowing the Sammy clutch bracket to be used. I used the Sammy rubber mount for the right side too. Next I cut the Sammy right side motor mount frame bracket from the frame, as it sits too far forward for the 1600 engine.
I put the engine/transmission assembly into place, with the Sidekick transmission mount sitting on the Sammy crossmember, and installed the bolts for the left engine mount. I made sure the transmission mount was centered on the crossmember, and Vise-Gripped it in place. After making sure the engine was sitting at the correct angle, I bolted the previously cut off right side frame bracket to the mount. This jigged the bracket in the correct place. Then I welded the frame bracket on in its new position, approximately 1" rearward of its original position. I suppose one could also use the Calmini right side engine bracket if they didn't want to cut and weld, but I'm not sure it is sold separately.
Now for the transmission mount! Luckily the Sammy crossmember is the right height, and has enough room to drill holes for the Sidekick mount. The Sammy crossmember has a tab that sticks forward from the crossmember. It has two holes drilled in it for the Sammy transmission mount, and a big hole centered in between them. The first new hole needs to be drilled between the front edge of the tab, and the front edge of the big hole. This needs to be a 1/2" hole. Rearward of this tab, there is another big hole through the crossmember's lower panel (the crossmember is double-wall with a space in between). The new rear hole (also 1/2") for the Sidekick transmission needs to be drilled in the center of this big hole, through the top panel. You may need to elongate this hole (fore and aft) to make up for manufacturing differences in the motor mount etc.
Almost done! The driveshaft is all that's left! This may be the toughest part for those without lots of fabricating tools and experience. Luckily you can buy one from Hawk Suzuki for about $100. For those who want to make their own, follow along!
Cut your Sammy driveshaft tube off the front driveshaft yoke without cutting through the yoke. I used a cut off saw, and cut right through the weld where the yoke was joined to the tube. Cut about 1/8" down all the way around, then tap the yoke off the tube. Next, cut the tube off about 1" from the weld on the other yoke. Try to get a very straight cut. You should now have the rear yoke with about 1/2" of tube sticking out past the end of the yoke center (inside the tube). Now deburr the edge of the tube, and very carefully line up the previously cut off front yoke and press or tap it into the end of the tube 'till it's all the way in. The yokes should be lined up the same way, and the distanced from the 'U' joint holes should be the same on each side. When it's all ready, get out the electric glue gun (MIG welder)! Now install the 'U' joints and the mounting flange from the Sammy, and the output flange from the Sidekick transmission -- it fits on the Sammy 'U' joint. You will need to unbolt the transfer case mounts and move the case back to get enough room to install the newly shortened driveshaft.
I know that some of this is less than clear without pictures. I'll try to get some later. If anyone needs additional explanation on any part of this swap, email me at
tourette@accessone.com and I'll try and help out.
2. S.P.O.A (spring over axle) suspension lift. Scott Gomez
Essentially the entire suspension and both axles need to be removed. The only thing that can stay attached is each of the springs (by one end, anyway). The vehicle will need to be raised to a significant height to clear the various components to be removed and supported by the frame. This will be a much easier job to perform if you get a friend to help as there are portions of the process that will be much easier with two people (and perhaps should be done with two people) like wrestling the axles out and onto a suitable work surface.
For safety:Disconnect the battery negative cable Also, raise and properly support the vehicle. You'll also need to: Release the emergency brake. Set the transmission and transfer case to neutral.
How you go about doing this conversion will depend on whether or not you have access to a hydraulic lift, and whether or not you'll be doing the welding where you are doing the rest of the work. Obviously, if you have to take the axles out somewhere to be welded, this is gonna be a bit more complex than if you can weld 'em where you drop 'em. In my case, the hydraulic lift and the welding were in the same place as the vehicle, but I know that's a luxury most people won't have. While my situation certainly made things easier to do, it doesn't preclude you doing this in the garage or driveway.
Disassembly
1. Remove all four wheels.
2. Remove all four shocks.
3. Remove the front and rear flexible brake lines.
4. Remove brake line clips from the flexible brake line connectors.
5. Plug the rigid brake lines where they're open under the vehicle.
6. Disconnect and remove the emergency brake cable from each rear wheel.
7. Remove the front and rear propellor shafts.
8. Drain the front and rear differentials.
9. Remove the stabilizer and stabilizer brackets.
10. Remove the steering damper.
11. Separate the pitman arm from the drag link.
12. Remove the nut and washer from the steering box shaft.
13. Using a puller, remove the Pitman arm from the steering box shaft.
Note: It is not necessary to disassemble the axles themselves.
Pick an axle to start with and make sure it is well supported. Supports should be placed just inboard of the springs. Remove the spring seats from the bottom of each spring on the selected axle by removing the u-bolt nuts. An impact wrench comes in really handy here. Remove the lower shackle pins from the front of each front spring. It is not necessary to remove the upper shackle pins nor the spring bolts from the rear of each spring. Remove the lower shackle pins from the rear of each rear spring. It is not necessary to remove the upper shackle pins nor the spring bolts from the front of each spring. Remove the inner shackle plate from the shackle. Rock each spring down clear of the axle. Using two people, remove the axle from under the vehicle. Remove the rigid metal brake lines from the axle.
Welding
Place the axle on a suitable surface, with the existing spring pads pointed exactly down and with the mounting surface level, and grind clean the area immediately opposite the existing spring saddle pads. Position the new spring saddle pads, making sure that they are square and the top surface is level.
Weld the new pads in place by first tacking them in position, then welding a portion at a time to avoid damaging or warping the axle tube. See the drawing on the right. Take your time, work carefully, and allow the axle tube to cool between welds.
While the front axle is cooling, cut or grind the old front lower shock mounts from the spring seats. Weld the new front lower shock mounts to each front spring seat, taking care to remember the orientation that the new seats will assume when reinstalled. (The new rear lower shock mounts will be installed by welding them in place after the rear axle has been remounted).
When the axle tube has completely cooled, repaint ground areas, fresh welds, and bare metal on the axle tube and spring saddle pads.
Other modifications
Clamp each spring next to the spring locating pin, and remove the pin. Invert the pin, reinstall it and tighten securely. Remove the clamp on each spring. Swing the spring back to its normal position in the shackle. Reinstall the shackle pins, being sure to orient them with the nut towards the body centerline. Torque each shackle pin to 22.0-39.5 ft-lb. (3.0-5.5 kg-m).
1. Install the emergency brake cable drop bracket.
2. Install the rear shock upper mounting bar.
3. Install the new rear bump-stop brackets.
4. Install the new rear bump stops.
Hammer over the perpendicular welded seam on the inside of the rear of the front fender, to prevent any rubbing with larger tires. Use a ball-peen hammer. If you work slowly and don't use heavy blows, the seam should bend over without popping the welds.
While you've got the axles out on the ground, you may as well install that locker you've had your eye on. It's certainly easier to do it now than have to crawl under it later. I installed a Detroit EZ locker in the rear.
If possible, get the ol' Mark I "flame wrench" out and put a pair of bends in your drag link to cause it to run parallel again. See Larry Harris' article on this.
Reassembly
Once again, pick an axle with which to start and make sure it is well supported once it has been lifted into place just below the springs. Supports should be placed just inboard of the springs.
Note: All torque specs are from the Suzuki manual for the 86-87 Model years (which also covers "early '88s"). Be sure to check the torque specs for your year Samurai, and follow manufacturer's recommendations for the reinstallation and proper torque for each fastener. If you break a fastener, be sure to replace it with only the same grade fastener!
Double-check to make sure the axle is well supported.
Replace the spring seats on the top of each spring on the selected axle. Have a helper lift one end of the axle into position while you place a u-bolt up from the bottom of the axle through the spring seat and thread a washer and nut well onto each end of the bolt. Lift the other end of the axle into position and fasten with another u-bolt, washers, and nuts
Place the second u-bolt, washers and nuts on each end of the axle.Tighten each u-bolt ensuring that the locating pin on each spring enters the hole on the new spring saddle pad. Once properly located, tighten each u-bolt securely, drawing each end of the bolt down evenly. Torque to 43.5-57.5 ft-lb. (6.0-8.0 kg-m).
For the rear axle, slip the new rear shocks onto the upper mounting posts and slip the new rear lower shock mounts into the eye of each shock. Now rotate the shocks into place to find the new mounting position of the new rear lower shock mounts. Once you've marked the position of the new lower mounts, grind the axle clean in that spot, slip the shocks back off, and weld the new mounts into place. Once the axle has cooled, paint the bare metal, shock mounts and fresh welds.
Install the new dropped Pitman arm on the steering box shaft and reconnect the drag link. Replace the washer and nut on the steering box shaft and tighten securely.
Reinstall the steering damper. The steering damper stay bolts (those that hold the formed sheet-metal piece to the Pitman arm) are torqued to 13.5-20.0 ft-lb. (1.8-2.8 kg-m). The steering damper nut (holds the bolt inserted thorough the stay and the damper eye) should be torqued to 25.5-39.5 ft-lb. (3.5-5.5 kg-m). The steering damper pin nut (fastens the opposite eye of the steering damper to the chassis-mounted pin) specs at 16.0-25.0 ft-lb. (2.2-3.5 kg-m).
Reinstall the front and rear propellor shafts. If you disassembled the shaft sections at the slip joints, be sure to align the match marks on the shaft sections, and install new boots if necessary. When re-installing the shafts, the driveshaft spacers will go in place at the front end of the front shaft, and the rear end of the rear shaft. Use the new longer bolts provided for the drive-shafts to fasten the spacers in place between the driveshaft flange and the differential flange on both propellor shafts. Torque all driveshaft fasteners to 17.0-21.5 ft-lb. (2.3-3.0 kg-m).
Refill the front and rear differentials using natural or synthetic SAE 80W-90, 75W-80 or 75W-90 hypoid gear oil (Suzuki "strongly recommends" the use of 75W-90 gear oil). Many of those who have expressed an opinion on this on the Suzuki mailing list have stated a definite preference for synthetics in the drive-train, citing better performance and quiter operation. Torque the filler plugs to 25.5-36.0 ft-lb. (3.5-5.0 kg-m). Drain plugs should be torqued to 29.0-50.5 ft-lb. (4.0-7.0 kg-m).
Replace and reconnect the emergency brake cable to the new dropped mount and each rear wheel. Check to see if the cables will contact the new shock mounts or any other portion of the axle assembly. If necessary, place a spacer between the cable and the cable mounting points to move the cable out clear of the new mounts.
Remove the plugs from the rigid brake lines where they're open under the vehicle.Replace the front and rear flexible brake lines with the new stainless steel braided brake lines, attaching them first to the rigid lines that are attached to the body and chassis of the vehicle, then to the brake cylinders at each wheel. Flare nuts are torqued to 10.5-13.0 ft-lb. (1.4-1.8 kg-m). The front brake line flexible hose bolts are tightened to 14.5-18.0 ft-lb. (2.0-2.5 kg-m). Replace the brake line clips for the flexible brake line connectors. Apply the Rancho shock decals, if desired, then install all four new shocks. Replace all four wheels. Lower the vehicle.
Warning: BLEED THE BRAKE SYSTEM! The Samurai uses a dual diagonal system, where the opposite front and rear wheels each use the same "main line". For example, the left front and right rear brakes use the same line. Always bleed the wheel cylinder farthest from the master cylinder first (that is, do the rear wheels first). Be sure to keep the fluid reservoir on the master cylinder filled as you go along, and do a thorough job in bleeding the brakes.
Make sure to check all fasteners after you've put some miles on. The way Thorley recommends for headers isn't a bad idea here either:
bullet Check and torque to specs after one day
bullet Check and torque again after one week
bullet Check and torque again after one month
I'd check once a month thereafter as well, or after every off-road trip, whichever is more frequent.
3. 'Calmini' 5 inch suspension lift. Larry Harris
Wanting to run bigger tires I installed the Shackle Reversal Kit from Calmini Products Manufacturing on my 1987 Samurai. Combine this kit with 3" springs and lightly valved shocks and you are ready to bolt on a set of your favorite 31" tires. This kit is completely bolt-on, there is no drilling or welding required*. The instructions provided are very straight-forward and easy to follow. This modification will give you a two-inch lift while maintaining stock castor angles. Calmini also has a 5 inch combination kit.
Support the front frame and axle on jack stands. Cover all the nuts and bolts with a heavy coat of WD40 to penetrate the rust. Then break the old hardware loose and remove the stock front shackles. Install the new front brackets to the frame with the poly bushings and hardware. This kit has a brace that runs from one side of the frame to the other in the front. Put this in place, installing the nuts loosely. With the springs and shocks still bolted to the axle it will not be hard to move the springs into their new position on the front mounting points.
Next comes the rear hanger for the front springs. The old bolts sometime stick (rust weld) in the rear hanger--this can be a trouble spot. If they do stick, be prepared to spend some time working the bolt with rust penetrator and a wrench. I have had to cut the head and thread off the bolt, pull the spring and burn out the stock rubber bushing to finally remove the bolt, a big flame wrench can be a handy thing.
The front is done, moving to the rear support the truck and axles on jack stands. Loosen and remove the old stock shackles, replace them with new bushings and the longer shackles that are provided in the kit. They are very heavy duty, well manufactured and easy to install. Torque all the fasteners to factory specifications and enjoy your newly installed lift.
4. GM alternator installation. Randy G Gary Munck
The GM 100 Amp alternator that fits in a Samurai (that was sold by Loren) is a GM 7127 model. It doesn't need the idiot light connection or the field (exciter) connection. It's self exciting and only needs the one wire connection to the battery.
You can get the additional 2-wire connector to connect up the idiot light and field wire. There are two possible color combinations of Samurai wire harness depending on the year. (Sorry still haven't noted what year is which.) The color codes of the wires for proper hook up are:
GM Delco/Remy Original Samurai Wire
2 wire clip Type 1 colors/stripe Type 2 colors/stripe
red white/green black/white
white white/black white/red
Due to higher output of the 100 Amp alternator, it is recommended that a 30 Amp fuse be put in place of the approx. 6" green wire (fusible link) at the positive battery post, which comes from the stock wiring harness (and is connected to the alternator). The alternator is capable of charging the battery at more than 30 Amps if you have too heavy a draw. I think a battery shouldn't be charged with more than 30 Amps, even on a quick charge. So the fusible link is there to protect the battery and the stock wiring harness.
You don't have to install the 30 Amp fuse, but it's safer and easier to do it now. If you don't have a 30 Amp fuse, the fusible link at the battery will blow and you'll need to splice in a piece of wire to replace it. If this fuse (or fusible link) blows, the car will die completely. (A fusible link is a wire 2-4 sizes smaller than the wire it protects.) This wire is needed for the entire car to work, so carry some spare 30 Amp fuses or wire.
The stock Samurai alternator puts out 45 Amps. A Sidekick puts out 55 Amps (I think. It may only be 35 & 45). I've installed the 100 Amp GM alt with just the one wire hook up and it works fine. Later on I taped off the original Samurai 10 gauge wire at the alt and ran a 6 gauge wire from the alt to the positive battery post. You don't have to do this, but the fusible link (or 30 Amp fuse) at the battery pos. will blow, if you have lots of accessories drawing more than 30 Amps. When this starts happening, it should be a warning signal to you, to install the 6 gauge or large wire. The fuse is blowing cause the stock 10 gauge wire in the stock harness can not carry the additional output demand of your accessories (now that you have an alt than can output more and keep up with the accessories), and it is protecting itself from a melt down...
Loren's lower bracket fits like a charm. It's a Samurai bracket, with the original extensions cut off from the base, then new pieces to hold the GM alternator are welded to the stock base. So the old Samurai base bolts right in. You reuse the upper bracket that is currently there. Just loosen it so it moves (about ?") to align with the GM alternator upper bolt.
The GM alternator installs very easily from below. You remove the two screws that hold on the plastic dust shield and slide it out of the way. Then loosen the two bolts on the passenger's side of the radiator support bracket, that hold the lower radiator hose's brace; as you'll need to push the lower hose (about 3/4") out of your way to slip in the bigger GM alternator
11/96 update: I found a 94 Amp alt from a stock 83 Camaro, 2.5L engine, 94 Amp option. It is GM model 7294-3. (The "-3" means the 2-wire connection is in the 3 o'clock position. You have the choice of 3, 6, 9, & 12.) I also know there is a 110 Amp version, but can't seem to find the model number yet. It comes stock at 94 Amps and is available from any auto parts store. This makes it way cheaper to purchase than a juiced up specialty alternator. Mine cost $74 from Trak Auto. You can also buy the GM 2-wire connection for the alt at most parts stores too. So now all you need is to build or buy the bracket.
Two notes that I almost forgot...
On the original 7127 model from Loren, he told me to swap the Samurai alternator pulley onto the GM alternator, so it would spin faster... Later on when I replaced the alternator (with the Camaro one) I left the stock GM pulley on the alternator, since they seem to be the same size, but maybe I measured wrong.
The Petroworks alternator kit uses a G.M. type CS130 with an output of 105 Amps. There are several configurations of the CS130, but most are basically the same internally with the exception that many of the cheap ones have inferior regulators and diode packs that are made off-shore. Be sure you get the Delco-Remy regulator. It is necessary to use a stronger than stock mounting bracket on the bottom because of the greater load. In addition, the charge wire must be of greater ampacity than the stock harness.
The Petroworks kit includes the alternator, bracket, charge wire, belt and interface cable which plugs into the alternator and into the stock harness.
